As part of a project to make a 3-D printed Curta calculator, I've been looking at various ways of creating and finishing text on a 3-D printed object. In the Curta, this is used for the results dials and the digit selectors, and for some text on the body.
Some possible techniques are:
- make a mask or stencil using a Cricut and apply paint.
- cut the text into vinyl using a Cricut and stick it to the surface.
- print the text onto self-adhesive paper and stick it on.
- print the text onto paper, glue it on, and then spray-coat with lacquer.
- deboss the text into the surface and fill with the characters with paint.
There are undoubtedly other possibilities. For example, I saw one video using silicone caulk, with washing up liquid to help mask the surface. And if you have a multicolor printer, you have more options.
For the painted versions, there is a further question of whether the prepare the surface by sanding it smooth, so that the paint does not track into the layer lines. It seems obvious that you should do this. With some filaments, the act of sanding makes the surface take on a distressed appearance. In this case, you may be able to paint the surface to restore its color first.
Most of my experiments are with the debossed text technique. I stipple paint into the text, then wipe off the excess with a dry paper towel. When the paint is partially dry, I clean the remaining excess from the surface with alcohol on a paper towel. It worked best when I did this several times, as the alcohol makes the paint that it still in the text run a little more. It helps to clean a patch then dry it, then clean the next patch and so on. I used an acrylic paint. It's better straight out of the tube rather than mixed with any water, as it is more solid and doesn't run as much. I also tried a solid marker (basically very thick paint) and this works as well.
Over time, I refined the technique for this, to minimize the amount of extra paint. When I wiped away the excess with alcohol, I also tried to dry it immediately to limit extra leeching of paint from the digits.
Here are some example results.
The first thing to say is that none of these look as good as the results that Marcus Wu, designer of the 3-D printed Curta, obtained by preparing and painting the surface, then using a stencil. However, he also invested a lot of time in it, and wanted to get high quality for when he gave away his model to a Famous Person. I'm willing to compromise.
Key:
- row 1
- a. grey filament straight off the printer (unsanded).
- b. black filament after sanding with grades from 150 to 3000 and cleaning up.
- c. text printed on self-adhesive paper.
- row 2
- a. grey filament after finishing, with silver paint.
- b and c. grey filament after finishing, with red paint.
- row 3
- a. black filament after finishing, with white paint.
- b. black filament after finishing, with white paint from a solid marker.
- row 4
- a. unsanded blue filament, with red paint. Unlike all the other painted examples, I did an extra round of cleaning up several days after painting it, and this removed a little more paint from the layer lines without causing any additional running from the text.
- b. unsanded blue-grey filament, with white paint.
- c. blue-grey filament after finishing, with white paint.
Observations and comments:
- 1b shows how sanding can distress the surface of the print. In 3a and 3b, some of the white or grey marks between the text are the result of sanding, rather than paint.
- 2b and 2c show that you can get different results even with the same materials and finish. I think 2c is worse because the paint may have been a little more dilute. I was still experimenting with whether to mix any water in with it.
- 3a and 3b are similar in how much the paint spread. So the more solid paint from the solid marker does not make much of a difference. It might fill the text a bit better, though the comparison is not exact, as I think I debossed it by 2mm for 3b, compared to 1mm for all the others.
- the text version in 1c is one of the best. I do have some concerns about the longevity of the glue. Spraying it with lacquer would help, though to do this well you need to be able to let the lacquer dry without dripping. You can also get a seam where the paper wraps round, not shown in this photo.
- 4a and 4b show that you can get good results even if you don't sand the surface. 4b is better than 4c.
Here is a more recent print, using variable height layers, and after a bit of refinement of the technique.
My general conclusion is that printed paper gives the best results of the techniques I tried, provided it holds up over time. I think the painted debossed text works OK if you want something functional but with imperfect appearance, and that printing without sanding down the layer lines is as good or better than sanding them. However, it's also worth noting that I am not very skilled when it come to doing this sort of thing, and some more adept could probably do better painted versions that I did.
